Cities of the Dead

I spent this week in New Orleans, working a medical conference. I had a little time on my hands and went on a Cemetery tour. My tour guide Stella from Haunted History Tours was excellent! Not only knowledgable but enthusiastic and engaging. I learned a lot about all those spooky above ground. One of the first things you notice when arriving to New Orleans is the above ground tombs seen off I-10 in Metairie. The cemetery I visited was St. Louis Cemetery #1, one of the oldest and most famous built in 1789.

20190725_110657The Cemetery is one square block and is fenced in by high walls of brick, some of the portions are actually tombs itself. These walls serve as a multi-person final resting place, not necessarily a family tomb or Society.

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Wall vaults of multiple persons laid to rest

St. Louis Cemetery #1 is truly a little city. The monuments and tombs wind around in intricate pathways. Many burial sites are crumbled and falling apart. These generally do not have living family members that take care of the tombs. Those that are have a placard that reads “perpetual care” at the foot. These are tombs that have a trust that goes toward upkeep.

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Crumbling burial site.

The above ground tombs come in a variety of designs. Some are flat and are only one small step above ground similar to copings or ledger tombs. Some are step tombs like the one below.  Then, we have the ones that look like miniature houses.

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Step tomb

Burying the dead in New Orleans proved to be a problem that the first European inhabitants faced. The city of New Orleans is below sea level. When European settlers put coffins under six feet of earth, they found that the water level would often rise above them. Since the coffins were filled with air. The water sometimes pushed them up through the earth which caused caskets and bodies to pop up in the most unexpected places. They attempted to solve this by drilling holes into the caskets and weighting them down with rocks however, this caused decayed rotten bodies to seep into the earth and added to the already putrid smell of the city. The solution was Wall Vaults or Oven Vaults. 

Oven Vaults

Because of the sea level in New Orleans Vaults or “Oven Vaults” were approved by the Spanish Government.  St. Louis Cemetery #1 was built when St. Peter’s Street cemetery ran out of room and is the first approved above ground cemetery in the city. The land was consecrated by the Catholic Church.  It is important to note that everyone no matter their race were buried in St. Peter’s cemetery because Catholicism was the only religion allowed in the city in the early 1700’s.

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Society oven vault with 20 openings. All ashes whether family or not get pushed to the cave that lies underneath the structure

Above- small oven vault in front and a larger “Society” Vault in the back. Most vaults were for generations of family members. If you didn’t have one established for you family, you could “buy” a spot in a society.

The shock of death

The vaults are called oven vaults because of the subtropical climate in New Orleans. Made of granite or marble once a body is encased it takes just a few months for a body to break down and basically cremate itself. After a year mostly bones are left. The surprise that I found was that once the bones are broken down, they are pushed to the back of the vault toward a chute. The debris falls through the chute in a caveau or “cave” underneath. This makes room for the next person that passes away. Each vault could house generations of family members, who’s ashes are then mixed together underneath. Most family tombs have the family name listed at the top and the names are listed on a plaque or ledger on the front in descending date of death. Once you run out of room on the plaque, it is moved and fastened to the side of the vault and a new one is affixed to the front. Most have a screw or bolt that can be removed for the next body.

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Italian Benevolent Society Tomb built 1857

Famous People

Of course the main reason I went on the tour was to see if any creepy things would happen. No such luck! It was a pretty easy tour without event. Homer Plessey, is interred at St. Louis #1. He was a fair skinned Black Haitian whose parents fled from Haiti during the revolution. and of course the Voodoo Queen herself, Marie Laveau. If you are ever in the Big Easy, be sure to book some of the walking tours that take you through the French Quarter. You won’t be disappointed, especially if you have a great guide that really knows the city.

 

Does KCI airport have unmarked slave graves?

It’s a known fact the state of Missouri had slaves. Census records show that thousands of people lived on what is now the KCI airport including plantations. Most slave burial grounds did not mark graves with a headstone and even after emancipation, African-Americans could not afford a headstone. Sometimes the plot was marked with a simple stone or a saw palmetto plant.

Recently a group of concerned citizens have brought attention to the land that will be developed for the new Kansas City International Terminal might have unmarked slave graves. Bruce Watkins Jr. states, “It feels like we are being written out of history,” said Watkins, whose ancestors lived on plantations around KCI. “By saying it doesn’t exist or not documenting its existence, it pretty much writes us out of Kansas City and local history.” He would like to see the airport acknowledge and include the possibility that there may be unmarked slave graves on the property. KCI states that archeologist have taken core samples with nothing conclusive in 2006.

How does one find out if indeed there are multiple burial sites that would date back 150 years? This debate has been ongoing for 10 years with no visible proof other than white family plots that have already been identified or relocated. Recent interviews with locals have not uncovered much more other than supposition. However if they do discover the presence of graves KCI and Platte City council could borrow a page from Shell Oil. Earlier this year, Shell honored and remembered those buried on what used to be the Monroe and Bruslie sugar plantations, in Louisiana.

Screen Shot 2018-09-25 at 7.12.56 PM.png“We ought to work together to figure out how … to evaluate the things that we want to preserve, protect and teach about in terms of how this country was really developed,” said A.P. Tureaud Jr., the son of a revered New Orleans civil rights lawyer who counts slaves and slave-owners among his ancestors. Tureaud is working to give slave gravesites federal protection. Bruce Watkins Jr. and other Kansas Citians that share a common interest in preserving the sacred burial grounds on KCI land could introduce similar legislature that would protect current and future discoveries.

 

Photo of Bruslie Marker: Associated Press

Quotes Bruce Watkins Credit: KSHB

 

 

 

Those Spooky Old Cemeteries

I’ve spent a lot of time in cemeteries lately. One of the prettiest is the St. Aubert Cemetery in St. Aubert, Mo. High on a hill overlooking the St. Aubert chute and railroad tracks, hundreds of years of history rest including my family.

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But the first time I went there I wasn’t so enchanted! I was alone with my two dogs and my .38 revolver. I was more afraid of snakes and bobcats than people through. An old church rests halfway up the hill and when I was done researching I decided to get out and look at it. When I came around the corner of the small building I saw beer cans. I cocked my head thinking ‘ wow, how old must those be?’ Then I realized they were modern day cans and the hair on my neck tingled. Time to go!

I later asked the town folks and they said it was probably some teens hanging out. At any rate, a wealth of info can be found in cemeteries.

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If you find an ancestors death certificate with the burial site it might be worth it to visit and get pictures if they aren’t available on Find a Grave. Here are some tips on how to research local cemeteries