Cities of the Dead

I spent this week in New Orleans, working a medical conference. I had a little time on my hands and went on a Cemetery tour. My tour guide Stella from Haunted History Tours was excellent! Not only knowledgable but enthusiastic and engaging. I learned a lot about all those spooky above ground. One of the first things you notice when arriving to New Orleans is the above ground tombs seen off I-10 in Metairie. The cemetery I visited was St. Louis Cemetery #1, one of the oldest and most famous built in 1789.

20190725_110657The Cemetery is one square block and is fenced in by high walls of brick, some of the portions are actually tombs itself. These walls serve as a multi-person final resting place, not necessarily a family tomb or Society.

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Wall vaults of multiple persons laid to rest

St. Louis Cemetery #1 is truly a little city. The monuments and tombs wind around in intricate pathways. Many burial sites are crumbled and falling apart. These generally do not have living family members that take care of the tombs. Those that are have a placard that reads “perpetual care” at the foot. These are tombs that have a trust that goes toward upkeep.

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Crumbling burial site.

The above ground tombs come in a variety of designs. Some are flat and are only one small step above ground similar to copings or ledger tombs. Some are step tombs like the one below.  Then, we have the ones that look like miniature houses.

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Step tomb

Burying the dead in New Orleans proved to be a problem that the first European inhabitants faced. The city of New Orleans is below sea level. When European settlers put coffins under six feet of earth, they found that the water level would often rise above them. Since the coffins were filled with air. The water sometimes pushed them up through the earth which caused caskets and bodies to pop up in the most unexpected places. They attempted to solve this by drilling holes into the caskets and weighting them down with rocks however, this caused decayed rotten bodies to seep into the earth and added to the already putrid smell of the city. The solution was Wall Vaults or Oven Vaults. 

Oven Vaults

Because of the sea level in New Orleans Vaults or “Oven Vaults” were approved by the Spanish Government.  St. Louis Cemetery #1 was built when St. Peter’s Street cemetery ran out of room and is the first approved above ground cemetery in the city. The land was consecrated by the Catholic Church.  It is important to note that everyone no matter their race were buried in St. Peter’s cemetery because Catholicism was the only religion allowed in the city in the early 1700’s.

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Society oven vault with 20 openings. All ashes whether family or not get pushed to the cave that lies underneath the structure

Above- small oven vault in front and a larger “Society” Vault in the back. Most vaults were for generations of family members. If you didn’t have one established for you family, you could “buy” a spot in a society.

The shock of death

The vaults are called oven vaults because of the subtropical climate in New Orleans. Made of granite or marble once a body is encased it takes just a few months for a body to break down and basically cremate itself. After a year mostly bones are left. The surprise that I found was that once the bones are broken down, they are pushed to the back of the vault toward a chute. The debris falls through the chute in a caveau or “cave” underneath. This makes room for the next person that passes away. Each vault could house generations of family members, who’s ashes are then mixed together underneath. Most family tombs have the family name listed at the top and the names are listed on a plaque or ledger on the front in descending date of death. Once you run out of room on the plaque, it is moved and fastened to the side of the vault and a new one is affixed to the front. Most have a screw or bolt that can be removed for the next body.

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Italian Benevolent Society Tomb built 1857

Famous People

Of course the main reason I went on the tour was to see if any creepy things would happen. No such luck! It was a pretty easy tour without event. Homer Plessey, is interred at St. Louis #1. He was a fair skinned Black Haitian whose parents fled from Haiti during the revolution. and of course the Voodoo Queen herself, Marie Laveau. If you are ever in the Big Easy, be sure to book some of the walking tours that take you through the French Quarter. You won’t be disappointed, especially if you have a great guide that really knows the city.

 

Earl “Jock” Caruthers-Kansas City Jazz Legend

A few years ago I was able to participate in the Kansas City Black Archives digitization project: Kansas City Jazz era and the Great Depression. I submitted this rare photo of my Uncle Earl Caruthers who was a local jazz musician that played with some pretty impressive swing and jazz bands including Bennie Moten and Jimmie Lunceford. The photo came from my cousin Candy Caruthers-Morrow’s collection who was his youngest daughter.

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My Uncle Earl or “Jock” as he was called was born Earl Malcolm Caruthers on May 29, 1904 in Monroe County, Mississippi. Many accounts have him born in Westpoint, Mississippi in 1910 but he was at least 6 years old on the 1910 US census.  The 10th of 11 children born to Jefferson and Mary Caruthers, the lived in rural Muldon, Mississippi where his parents were farmers. Along with other Caruthers family members, Earl’s father would migrate to Kansas City, Kansas to escape the Jim Crow south.  Earl attended Sumner High School and played basketball.

Earl Caruthers Senior Photo

My uncle attended Fisk University for two years after graduating from Sumner High School. He married Odia Wilson at age 20. From this union his first daughter Gloria Caruthers was born.

gloria and earl-Enhanced

He moved his new family to St. Louis where he had begun his career playing various saxophones in Bennie Moten’s Kansas City orchestra in 1928.

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Caruthers is 2nd from Right

Earl could play several different saxophones. In 1932 he joined the band of Jimmie Lunceford and mostly played the large baritone sax. He recorded with Lunceford often and can be heard on Lunceford’s “I Love You,” the raucous “Harlem Shout,” and the rowdy “Organ Grinder’s Swing.” He would eventually make New York his home base and in  1944 married Constance Collins from New York. Earl remained a member of Lunceford’s orchestra until Lunceford died in 1947. Shortly after he moved back to Kansas City, Ks with his daughter Candace and her younger brother Earl Jr.

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Earl and wife Constance with a young Candace

Uncle Jock continued to play in various bands in Kansas City and also took up a job as the local milk man. A man with a warm heart, he gave milk to families that could not afford it (much to the dismay of his employers) often paying from his own pocket. He died on April 05, 1971 in Kansas City, KS.

If your interested in seeing Earl Caruthers play, this might be the only video recording of him.  “Jimmie Lunceford and his Dance Orchestra with The Three Brown Jacks and Myra Johnson” recorded in 1936. Get ready to snap your fingers and tap your feet!

Uncle Jock is the last Sax on the right Click here

Video and Photo still credit: Jeremiah Ledbetter

Photos Courtesy of Roy Morrow (husband of Candace Caruthers) and Stefanie Caruthers

Holocaust memorial Museum

A few years back I visited several Smithsonian museums in DC. I didn’t have time to visit the US Holocaust Memorial museum but will make an attempt next summer at my family’s reunion. “The Holocaust was the systematic, bureaucratic, state-sponsored persecution and murder of six million Jews by the Nazi regime and its collaborators. Holocaust is a word of Greek origin meaning “sacrifice by fire.” The Nazis, who came to power in Germany in January 1933, believed that Germans were “racially superior” and that the Jews, deemed “inferior,” were an alien threat to the so-called German racial community.” Finding your Jewish roots can be difficult with immigration into the US. Let me help you get a start and we will see what we can find. In the meantime, if you are in Washington DC, you don’t want to skip over this great piece of preserved history. PS Bring a hankie! Click here for more museum info

June 2018-Update-I visited the museum this summer and you MUST go. It was extremely powerful!